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Discovering Cambodia

DISCOVERING CAMBODIA

Cambodia is a compact country, sharing borders with Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam. It is flanked by mountains to the north and the southeast, while the Tonlé Sap Lake dominates the central region. The Mekong River cuts through the country from the north en route to the Mekong Delta in Vietnam, bringing rich nutrients into the Tonlé Sap Lake and flooding it during the mon  soon. To the south, the 277-mile (443-km) long coastline is dotted with unspoiled islands, some of which are still undeveloped. Despite being decimated by war during the  1970s, the country’s burgeoning capital, Phnom Penh, and cities such as Siem Reap are exhilarating destinations.

PHNOM PENH
• Colonial architecture
• Artifacts from Angkor
• Bustling markets

Once hailed as the Pearl of the Orient, Phnom Penh still retains some of its former
French charm: in its Gallic cuisine and in the shuttered townhouses that line many of its streets. Built under French administration, the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda (see pp52–5) are quin  tessentially Khmer, housing fabulous Buddhist treasures. Nearby is the riverfront area of Sisowath Quay, the heart of Phnom Penh, and the National Museum of Cambodia (see p50), which shelters a vast array of artifacts from the Angkorian period. To the southwest lies the
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
(see p51), where thousands were tor  tured en route to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek

ANGKOR
• Temples of Angkor
• Floating villages
• Vibrant nightlife

The temples of Angkor, the chief highlight of this region, are among the most celebrated ancient buildings in the world. They offer visitors a glimpse of Cambodia’s greatest period – culturally and architecturally. The ideal way to visit these magnificent temples is via the riverside town of Siem Reap (see pp66–7). Fast becoming a favorite of glossy lifestyle magazines with the growth of upscale boutique hotels, quality shops, and spa treatments, Siem Reap has much to offer. Among the town’s attractions is Psar Chaa (see p66), an old market selling everything from fresh produce and souvenirs to clothes and jewelry.

The town’s vibrant nightlife, centered around the lively Pub Street, adds to its ever increasing charm.
However, most visitors head to the Hindu-Buddhist temples of Angkor. The temples’ surviving statuary, which has endured civil war and looting, and the vast barays (reservoirs) that cleverly diverted rivers to the rice fields of Angkor have captured the imagination of millions of visitors. Perhaps the best known of these temples is Angkor Wat (see pp68–9), which is the world’s largest religious complex, and best viewed  at sunrise or sunset. Ta Prohm (see pp80–81), among the most atmospheric of the Angkorian ruins, still remains engulfed by the encroaching jungle and was featured in the movie Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001), starring Angelina Jolie. The majestic city of Angkor Thom (see pp72–5), with the Bayon and its 216 smiling faces, said to be of Avalokitesvara, a Bodhisattva, is enigmatic and otherworldly.
Located a short distance south of Siem Reap is the natural wonder of the Tonlé Sap Lake and the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary (see p84), regarded as the most important breeding ground for large water-birds in Southeast Asia.
The floating village of Kompong Khleang (see p85), the largest permanent settlement on the Tonlé Sap, provides an authentic experience of traditional rural life in Cambodia.

visited Khmer temples. 
The Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau (see p91), a short distance from Battambang, are another grim reminder  of Cambodia’s violent past.
The rice plains and tiny villages finally give way to the spec  tacular remains of Prasat Preah Vihear (see pp94–5), an Angkorian temple lying close to the border with Thailand. The 7th- century pre-Angkorian ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk (see p98) are also among Cambodia’s ancient wonders. The town of Kratie (see p100), located on the Mekong River, is perhaps the best place for spotting the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. Beyond Kratie begins the vast wilderness of the northeast, with forests, plantations, and ethnic hill tribes.
Sen Monorom (see p101),the capital of Cambodia’s largest province, is referred to as “the Switzerland of Cambodia” for its cool climate and rolling hills.

SOUTHERN CAMBODIA
• Sunbathing on beautiful beaches
• Coastal national parks
• Sumptuous seafood

Flanked to the west by the Cardamom Mountains and to the east by Vietnam, Southern Cambodia is a picturesque region fringed by turquoise bays, powder-fine beaches, and a largely undeveloped
archipelago of verdant islands. The town of Sihanoukville (see pp106–7) is the gateway to the stun  ning white beaches of Otres and Occheuteal, among others. The nearby islands of Koh Rong Samloem and Koh Ta Kiev (see pp108–9) are delightfully quiet, if basic, and offer great diving and jungle treks respectively. Covering an area of 58 sq miles (150 sq km), the relatively unexplored Ream National Park (see p108) is home to endangered birds  of prey and butterflies, and is a great place for organized jungle treks. Inland, within the Bokor National Park (see p115), home to the Asiatic tiger, lies the deserted Bokor Hill Station, a former French outpost, and the location
for numerous films. Farther south, Kep (see p116), once a fashionable retreat for French Colonialists, is famed for its sunsets and seafood.
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