WHERE TO EAT
The cuisines of Cambodia and Laos share many similarities with those of their neighboring countries, especially Thailand. At the same time, both countries have dishes that are distinctly Cambodian or Lao such as amok (fish cooked in coconut milk) and laap (meat salad) respectively. French Colonialists contributed to the cuisines of these two nations, evident from the roadside stalls and bakeries that sell baguettes and croissants. Parisian-style cafés are also common in urban centers.
A variety of international cuisines are served at upscale restaurants in major cities such as Phnom
Penh, Siem Reap. From street vendors and barbecues on the beach to swanky cafés and restaurants in posh hotels, the food choices in Cambodia and Laos are varied, as are the prices.
RESTAURANTS
The service at restaurants in upscale hotels in Phnom Penh, Siem Rea is as flawless as diners might find in the West, and may even be better in some cases. In contrast, the average Khmer and Lao restaurant is an informal affair offering a balance of rice, vegetables, and meat. But visitors will also find Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indian influences in spring rolls, spare ribs, and curry, thanks to
Cambodia’s mid-way location between the three countries.
Fish features heavily in Cambodian food, no doubt due to the presence of the Tonlé Sap, which is teeming with fish. Prahoc, a fermented fish paste, which is also found in Laos, is used to flavor
many dishes. The average Lao and Khmer meal might consist of a soup, followed by a fish or meat dish, and salad. Rice is eaten with everything and often on its own; it can be found in rice noodle soup, rice porridge, and as an accompaniment to almost every dish. Sticky rice is one of the main staples of Lao food, and it is often sold in bamboo tubes by the road-side. Both countries have
plenty of Gallic food on offer due to their French Colonial past, the most common items
being the baguette and paté. There are also many French cafés and restaurants in all the major cities, where the steaks are tender, the tarts delicious, and the wines first class.
Western fast-food chains and cuisine have also become popular with the increasing numbers of Western visitors; pizza is as likely to feature on the menu as local amok. In Laos, however, fast-food
chains have only just arrived.
STREET FOOD
Eating a quick snack from a street vendor is a wonderfully Khmer and Lao thing to do, and the snacks are usually delicious. From fried crab, snake, frog, tarantula, beetle, cricket, amok, noodles, and
meat to sugarcane, jackfruit, melon, rambutan, coconut, mangosteen, and crêpes, there is a wide variety of food available on street corners, both in the provinces and in the cities. Bear in mind that
the best time to visit a vendor for breakfast is early in the morning between 6:00–8:30am when the food is freshly cooked. It is best to go to a stall that seems busy, attracting people from every strata of society; a crowded stall is a sure sign that the food is good. Another promising sign to look out
for is more than one family member working the stall, since that means it is popular and generates enough work for the other members of the family. It is best to avoid consuming fruit smoothies
with ice even if they look delicious. In most cases unpurified water will have been used to make the ice, and consuming it may cause or lead to stomach ailments.
VEGETARIAN OPTIONS
Both countries have an abundance of fruit, which is available on every street corner.
Stir-fries and rice dishes with vegetables are very common, although it is likely that they will have been prepared in pans that have been used to cook meat. In more upscale restaurants in the cities,
however, this might not be the case. However, in the provinces avoiding meat gets harder as the average Lao and Khmer does not understand the concept of vegetarianism.
They believe that meat and fish are vital for strength and if travelers can afford them, then they should eat them. In Phnom Penh, Siem Reap strict vegetarians can head to one of the many Indian
restaurants where the hosts will be more sympathetic to the idea of a pure vegetarian meal. Luang Prabang offers the best vegetarian cuisine of all four cities and the most discerning menus. Several
Western-run restaurants are more than likely to provide authentic vegetarian dishes and are usually careful about the way they should be cooked. Those vegetarians who are not overly strict
about their dietary habits and can tolerate fish sauce will have no problem finding a satisfying meal.
BEER
The most popular Cambodian beverage is Angkor Beer, which is produced in Sihanoukville. In Laos there is Beerlao, which is particularly delicious and even cheaper than Angkor Beer.
There are many other competitors on their heels, from Heineken to Tiger. Visitors will probably be approached by a “beer girl” at some stage in their travels in Cambodia, whose job is to promote a
particular brand. Capturing a customer’s loyalty is big business in both countries and beer companies go all out to procure patrons for their brands.
EATING CUSTOMS
Unlike in the West, meals in Cambodia and Laos are not served in a succession of dishes; if visitors order three separate dishes they will arrive all at the same time, or as and when they are cooked. Meals are a social event in both countries and a chance for families and friends to catch up. Individual bowls are arranged around a central platter of dishes and everyoneshares each other’s dish. In the average earthy restaurant, be it in the market or off the street, visitors can expect to use chopsticks or cutlery. Visitors must use the communal spoon to serve food into their bowls, not their own implements. The common practice is to hold one’s bowl to the mouth and spoon the food inwith the chopsticks in the other hand. When usingchopsticks, do not leave them together in the bowl pointing upward as this is a symbol of death. It is normal for a host to offer a guest more food than he would to his own family members; this must not be turned down. It is also good etiquette not to finish everything on the plate.
Finally, the host should always be the first to sit down and taste the food.
PRICES
Fast food from street vendors accompanied by a fruit shake will cost no more than a few dollars. Cambodian, Lao, and Western restaurant prices are usually reasonable unless visitors choose one of the upscale restaurants in the urban centers. Although budget travelers may find Cambodia a little more expensive than Laos, if they avoid beer and wine and stick to street stalls and cheap restaurants serving basic dishes, they can get by for as little as US$10 per day on an average.
TIPPING
Although tipping is not expected in the same way as it is in the West, it is
significantly appreciated. Besides, a small tip of US$1 is almost equi valent to half a day’s wages for some and can go a long way in supple-menting their salary. Service, when it is good, should be
rewarded, although visitors should not feel compelled to leave a gratuity if this is not the case.
