Takeo
48 miles (77 km) South of Phnom Penh, 42,000. St 4, Takeo (032)-931-323.
A provincial capital, Takeo is located on the fringe of a
vast flood plain that forms a vital wetland area. Although not on the tourist
map, Takeo’s broad streets are visited by those en route to the impressive
early Khmer temple of Phnom Da, not far from town. As a result, the town has
several facilities, including modest hotels, Internet cafés, and a couple of
banks with ATMs. There are not many impressive sights here, although the lake
side promenade has a certain charm, including a dilapidated pier.
The Provincial Museum, a short distance from the
lake-front promenade, is also worth a visit for its local archaeological
exhibits. Visitors could also try the town’s culinary specialty, bong khorng
(giant prawns) fried with garlic and lemon juice, served in several restaurants
and street stalls.
Angkor Borei
13 miles (21 km) East of Takeo. 14,000, from Takeo.
A highly enjoyable boat ride from Takeo takes visitors to
the small riverside settlement of Angkor Borei, one of the oldest pre-Angkorian
sites in Cambodia. This scruffy, isolated town was earlier known as Vyadapura,
capital city of the ancient Hindu kingdom of Funan, which rose to prominence
between the 1st and 6th centuries AD.
The town’s unpaved streets and general air of poverty
provide little evidence of its illustrious past; it was once a key centre of
Hindu civilization and culture. Many of its residents are ethnic Vietnamese
–the border with Vietnam is just a few miles to the east – and visitors will be
able to catch a glimpse of fishermen wearing conical hats, typical of Vietnam’s
rural folk.
The Takeo Archaeological Museum, located on the canal
bank, is a reminder of the area’s former glory.
This interesting museum has a small, eclectic col-lection
of artifacts from the region, including
Funan-style ceramics that date back 2,000 years, lingas
(phallic symbols), a 6th-century
Standing Buddha, a 12th- century sand-stone statue of
Lakshmi, Hindu Goddess of Wealth, and ancient images of the Hindu gods Shiva
and Vishnu.
Environs Situated 2 miles (3 km) south of Angkor Borei,
Phnom Da is an exquisite, partly ruined
temple. Standing on the summit of an isolated hill, it
has exceptional views over lush, green paddy fields stretching deep into
Vietnam 5 miles (8 km) away, and across the wetlands to Takeo.
Phnom Da’s ruins, rising to a height of 59 ft (18 m), are
approached by 142 steps leading up the hill, and visitors are usually guided by
bare footed local children. The temple’s red-brick foundation dates from AD 514
and its intricate carvings have been weathered by centuries of rainfall, while
the walls are cracked and penetrated by plants. Despite its dilapidated
condition, there still remains much to admire – carved pillars, bas-reliefs of
nagas, and an imposing stone doorway. However, most of the carvings have been
taken away to museums in Phnom Penh and Angkor Borei.
Below the temple are several cave shrines that are still
used for religious offerings and prayers of good fortune.
Neak Luong
39 miles (63 km) South-East of Phnom Penh, 24,000.
Located on the east bank of the Mekong, Neak Luong is a
busy transit town with a devastating history. During the Vietnam War, the town
was bombed by a US B-52, which dropped a 20-ton
(18 tonne) load on the town center, resulting in the
deaths of almost 150 people. This incident is depicted in the opening sequence
of the 1984 British film, The Killing Fields.
Today, travelers along Highway 1 on their way to the
Vietnamese border and Ho Chi Minh City regularly pass through Neak Luong.
Car ferries also shuttle people and transport across the
Mekong River, which can result in long waits during busy times. Japan has
agreed to fund the construction of a 121-ft (37-m) high bridge here, but the
project has been fraught with delays.
The town also has a huge, bustling market where locals
peddle fruit and a variety of fried snacks such as crickets. Other than this,
there is little reason for visitors to stay in Neak Luong.
Svay Rieng
70 miles (113 km) South-East of Phnom Penh.
A provincial capital roughly half way between Phnom Penh
and Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, the town of Svay Rieng is bypassed by most
travelers, except those des-perately in need of a meal or a drink. The
Vietnamese border at Bavet is a short journey from here.
